Handmade Christmas Pajamas

Hi! Thanks for stopping by my blog as a part of the Ruffle Pajamas Tour by Once Upon A Sewing Machine!! I’d love to get to know you and keep in touch so don’t be afraid to leave a comment or chat with me on facebook, twitter and/or instagram!

Traditions are a great way to celebrate the holidays. When I was little, my grandma always put a swimsuit in our Easter Baskets and I know many people give PJs on Christmas Eve. The Ruffled PJs pattern, available in sizes 12 months through size 6, is a great choice for continuing or starting this tradition!!

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

When the kids and I went to F&M Fabrics (online at TheFabricMarket.com) to look for flannel to make these PJs, the choice was made for us as soon as we saw this adorable camping animals print. A helpful employee pointed out this cute pink coordinate, which we thought would be perfect for the small bodice ruffle and the pant cuffs. (Side Note: My daughter is 3 and consequently is going through a phase where she MUST have her sleeves rolled up and don’t even mention the word elastic. Hence, our sleeves have no elastic and they are rolled up. The original pattern design has cute elastic gathered sleeve hems)

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

My daughter’s measurements landed right on the 3T in the chart provided in the pattern so that is what I cut, even though I was worried it might be too small. The top is very roomy, as described in the pattern description, “for movement and twirl” so every little girl will love that. I wish the pants were a smidge longer but they fit perfectly otherwise. To make room for the cuff option in size 3T, I was instructed to cut 3″ off the pant leg so next time I may just cut 1 or 2″ instead.

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

The instructions were clear with photos to illustrate each step. The only thing I did differently was use the cuff to, in essence, hem the pants (maybe this affected the length somehow?). Let me show you what I mean.

First I sewed the side seams and the inseam of the pants.

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

Then I sewed the cuff pieces together at the side seams (the instructions recommend sewing each one to the pant leg before assembling the pants).

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

I pressed the tubes in half, wrong sides together.

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

And placed them on the pant leg, lining up the raw edges of both pieces.

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

Then I sewed, serged and pressed the cuff down. There we go – no additional hemming!

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

The Ruffled PJs Pattern is on sale for just $5 this week!

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

So go get your copy and don’t forget to check out the other stops along the blog tour! (just click each name below)

Image Map

Omni Family Tour – JaimeSews

Today’s The Day!! It’s my turn to share with you my version of the Omni Tempore pattern for both kids and adults! I’m Jaime, found on twitter, facebook and instagram as JaimeSews. I’ve been sewing since I was 15 years old, earned a bachelors degree in Home Economics, worked selling sewing machines, in a quilt shop and later in a bridal shop & now sew from my home. I’m so glad you’ve stopped by!!
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
I’ve been busy making up some fall/winter staples for me and the kids with the Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes and I have TWO techniques to share with you!
  • How to adjust for using a not-so-stretchy knit with a pattern designed for knits and
  • How to create basic machine appliques to make your Omni Tempore your own!

BUT – You should know – there is a sale on The Omni Tempore pattern bundle all this week during the tour AND there’s a giveaway! (And if you so happen to purchase the pattern and then win it, you will be refunded so be sure to keep your receipt/email!)

Prize Pack #1

1.5 meters of fabric from Joy Fits Fabrics

Omni Tempore Pattern Bundle by Sofliantjes

Bustle Skirt Pattern by Koda Baby Boutique

1 Pattern of choice by Filles a Maman

1 Pattern of choice by Serger Pepper

1 Pattern of choice by E+M Patterns

1 Pattern of choice by Striped Swallow Designs

Omni Family Tour | JaimeSews

Prize Pack #2

1.5 merers of fabric from Joy Fits Fabrics

Omni Tempore Pattern Bundle by Sofilantjes

Grace Pattern by Rose & Lee Designs

1 Pattern of choice by Filles a Maman

1 Pattern of choice by Madeit Patterns

1 Pattern of choice by Dandelions n’ Dungarees

So be sure to read/scroll to the end of the post to enter!

Let’s get started!

All three of us got our fabric from F&M Fabrics locally, found online at thefabricmarket.com. They have the best prices hands down and a huge selection. As we walked down the aisle lined with the knits, the kids saw/felt/hugged/laid their heads down on this super fuzzy, exquisitely soft fleece.
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
If you’ve ever been shopping with your kids at the fabric store, you know it can be a challenge to focus. Well, we all fell in love with how unbelievably soft the fabric was that I completely disregarded that the pattern calls for knits.
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
Now Fleece is technically a knit, but 1) it’s bulky and 2) it’s not that stretchy. So I had to improvise. First (in order of discovery), I had to cut the collar lining from a much thinner knit in order to reduce bulk. I also ended up cutting about 1/2″ off the neckline all the way around to widen it enough for their little heads to fit through.
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
After I got the collar attached, I realized there would also need to be some more room in the body and sleeve to compensate for the lack of stretch. I took the same knit I lined the collar with and made a gusset all the way down from the wrist to the shirt hem. I really loved how this added a pop of color to each top!
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
This particular problem could also be solved by choosing a size or two up. The Omni Tempore pattern has unlimited options, including different sleeve lengths, sleeve/waistline ribbing or regular hem, kangaroo pocket, collar or hood! I let the kids each pick out their own style features and since they chose the collar I thought it’d be fun to choose the hood for myself.
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
What I love about the hood is that it also looks like the cowl neckline the kids have, so especially in the fabric I chose, it still looks dressy. But…it DOES have a hood!
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
This knit I found at F&M Fabrics is a super soft, sheer knit, great for fall & part of winter here in CA.
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
Regarding the Omni Tempore pattern, it was a super quick sew! Even with all the options, I found it easy to make three different variations without consulting the instructions much after making just one. The instructions were clear and the pattern pieces all fit together without a hitch. It was a thoroughly enjoyable sew!
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
So let’s get on to how to add the applique!
Applique Tutorial | JaimeSews
First you need to gather all your supplies:
  1. Scissors
  2. A pencil/pen
  3. Pellon 805 Wonder-Under
  4. Fabric to applique
  5. Your applique design. I just found the images I wanted to use on the interwebs and printed them out.
Applique Tutorial | JaimeSews
Trace the applique design onto the paper side of your Wonder-Under.
Applique Tutorial | JaimeSews
Rough cut around the applique design you just traced onto your Wonder-Under and place it on the wrong side of your applique fabric. Press a few seconds to tack in place.
Applique Tutorial | JaimeSews
Allow it all to cool completely. Cut out the traced design.
Applique Tutorial | JaimeSews
Peel off the backing of your applique, making sure the webbing is attached to your fabric.
Applique Tutorial | JaimeSews
Place on your shirt where you want it to be…
Applique Tutorial | JaimeSews
Then fuse in place using a damp pressing cloth (or fat quarter sized muslin/cotton scrap) until the press cloth is dry. (See also the directions that come with your Wonder-Under). Stitch in place with a zig zag stitch.
Applique Tutorial | JaimeSews
The Omni Tempore is a great pattern for the whole family that doesn’t have to look matchy-matchy, but could if that’s what you’re going for! Thanks for stopping by and be sure to enter to win one of the amazing prize packs!

Click Here To Enter —-> a Rafflecopter giveaway

And don’t forget to head on over to the other stops on the tour!

Monday, November 24th
Tuesday, November 25th
Wednesday, November 26th
Thursday, November 27th
Friday, November 28th
Saturday, November 29th

MCM Studio Designs’ Estherlyn Jumper Tutorial

Today on the blog I’ve invited Linda Lehn of MCM Studio Designs to share a tutorial with you! Hint: She’ll show you an easy alternative for making ruffles! Take it away Linda!

Thank you so much, Jaime, for allowing me to write a guest post!  I am delighted and honored to be here.

Today I am excited to share a tutorial for a modification that can be made to my Estherlyn’s Jumper pattern.  The pattern is available through Craftsy, my Big Cartel Shop and my Etsy Shop.

In this tutorial I will show you how to add ruffles to the front and hem of the jumper.
Thank you to Lily AnnaBella, Faith and Kristie Mason Photography for the modeled photos.
I have had this idea in my head ever since I first drew a sketch for this pattern.  I was really excited to get a chance to give it a go!
So here’s how you do it.
After cutting out the pattern, you will need to mark placement lines for the ruffles.
First make marks 3/4 inch (2 cm) above the bottom edge of the fabric at the center and side of the skirt piece. Do this with the skirt piece still folded in the center.

After that, to determine how far apart to draw your placement lines, measure from the mark at the center to the center top of the skirt piece.  Subtract 3/8 inch (1cm) for the seam allowance at the top.  This distance will vary with different sizes.

I decided that I wanted nine ruffles in between because I wanted my ruffles to be 2 1/2 inches (6.4 cm) wide. Nine ruffles that size gave me the closest to an even measurement that was slightly less than the 2 1/2 inches (6.4 cm).  This distance needs to be a slightly smaller width than the ruffle itself so that the ruffles will overlap.  It wasn’t exact, but it was close enough. It took a little calculating to get a measurement that was easy to work with.
Dividing that measurement by nine gave me approximately 2 1/8 inches (5.4 cm).
Take that measurement and measure up from the first line at the center and make a mark.  Do the same at the side edge of the skirt piece.  Continue making marks like this until you get to the top of the piece.  Once the right side done, flip it over and make marks along the other edge as well.
Use a design curve ruler and draw lines to join them.  Mark from the center to the righthand side.
Keep the marks on the design curve as close to 90 degrees at the center and side edges as possible.  Each row is slightly different.  You will need to move the ruler just a bit for each row.
Continue all the way up the front piece.
Flip it over and do the left hand side as well.  For the left hand side, the ruler will need to be flipped over as well.
You will also need to make a mark where the seam allowance will be on each side of the skirt pieces.  This will help you know where to begin and end gathering the ruffles.  Measure in 3/8 inch (1 cm) from the edge to place these marks.
At this point it is a good idea to finish the bottom edges of the front and back skirt pieces with a serger or other edge finishing method.
Cut the ruffles slightly wider than the measurement between the lines.  My lines were 2 1/8 inch (5.4 cm) apart, I cut the ruffles at 2 1/2 inches (6.4 cm).  The ruffles should be cut as width-of-fabric strips if you are using a ruffler foot.  If you are gathering by hand, you may want to calculate the length of the strips by measuring each line with a measuring tape and then using a 1.5 or 2:1 ratio to determine the length.  Each row as you go up will require less fabric than the one below it.
You will also need to cut two additional pieces for ruffles for the bottom hem of the skirt.  For mine, in addition to the nine that were needed for the rows in the front, I needed to cut two more, one for the bottom front and one for the back.
I used my serger to roll a hem on both long edges of the ruffles. You can also create a narrow hem on a regular sewing machine.  If you make a narrow hem, the strips will need to be cut even a little wider than I cut mine to accommodate for the hem. The width of the hem will determine how much wider to cut the strips.
Now you are ready for the fun part, adding the ruffles to the skirt piece.  I use a ruffler foot to attach mine.
This is how I line up the line on the skirt piece with the edge of the ruffle strip.  I keep them in line with the hinge on the ruffler foot.  This gives me about a 3/8 inch (1cm) allowance from the top edge of the ruffle.
When using my ruffler foot, I always set it to 0 tucks per stitch until I know that I have passed the seam allowance.  This keeps the fabric within the seam allowance flat and makes it much easier to sew the side seam of the dress.
Once I know that I am a few stitches beyond the seam allowance, I stop with my needle down and set it to 1 tuck per stitch. When I get to the mark for the seam allowance at the end of the ruffle, I stop and set it back to 0.
The markings on the ruffler foot tell you how often it will add a tuck.  Zero means that it will not add any tucks at all, 12 means that it will add one tuck every 12 stitches, 6 means one tuck every 6 stitches and 1 means that there will be a tuck for every stitch.  The amount of fabric that will be tucked is determined by how tight the screw at the top of the foot is turned.  Tighter means it will take a bigger tuck, looser means it will take a smaller tuck.  Stitch length plays a big part in the amount of gathering that will go into the ruffle as well.  I usually have to play with scraps a bit to make sure that I have the amount of gathering that I want.
It takes a little practice to learn how to use the ruffler foot. Your two pieces of fabric move through the machine at different rates.  I use my left hand to guide the ruffle and my right hand to guide the piece to which I am attaching the ruffle.
Start with the bottom ruffle and move your way up to the top.  The ruffle at the top should be flush with the top edge of the skirt piece.
There will be a lot of leftover ends to the ruffle pieces hanging over each side of the skirt.  Carefully trim them off.  This will be much easier to do from the back of the piece.  For the bottom ruffle, just extend the line from the side of the skirt.
Pin and then baste them down inside the seam allowance in order to make it easier to sew up the side seams of the dress.
Once the front skirt piece is finished, add a single ruffle to the bottom of the back skirt piece.  To do this, once again, make a mark 3/4 inch (2 cm) above the bottom edge of the back skirt piece, draw your line, attach the ruffle and trim it accordingly.
Once those pieces are complete with ruffles, finish sewing up the dress as the pattern is written using the partial lining option and omitting the hemming steps.
Instead of doing two buttons on each side, I decided to get really crazy and make my own buttons out of polymer clay and just put one large button on each side.
So, there you have it… a fun, cute way to snazz up your next Estherlyn!  Thanks for reading and I  hope that you have enjoyed this tutorial.

Marbella Dress Tour & Giveaway

Hi & thanks for stopping by for the Itch to Stitch Marbella Dress Pattern Blog Hop!

I’ve always loved Audrey Hepburn. I know I’m not the only one. As a teenager she was a great role model – classic, beautiful, charming, graceful, timeless. I love her in this iconic photo wearing that boat neck dress with tulip skirt pegged down to the floor. *swoon*

Lovely, but a little impractical for daily wear. Insert the Marbella Dress by Itch to Stitch Designs.

As I mentioned on Monday’s Post, when I first saw the Marbella Dress I was over the moon for Kennis Wong’s design! I’m sure a lot of it had to do with it’s classic feel and clean lines. I was so thrilled to be able to test such a lovely garment pattern. The Marbella Dress features a wide boat neck, front and back yokes allowing for color blocking, feminine princess lines that allow for a close fit in the bodice, roomy, slightly above knee tulip skirt, functional in-seam pockets and invisible back zipper closure (description from the Itch to Stitch website).

Itch to Stitch Marbella Dress Pattern | JaimeSews

The group of testers and Kennis were so wonderfully helpful through the entire process. Before cutting into our fashion fabrics (mine being this solid blue, slightly textured bottom weight from F&M Fabrics), several of us started with muslins (practice garments) from solid cotton or leftover fabrics to get the fit just right. This pattern has sizing for A/B/C/D cups (I KNOW!) so the bodice fit wonderfully in front right off the bat. However, I did have some pooling of fabric at my lower back. That was quickly remedied by a sway back alteration on the appropriate pattern pieces. This is a common alteration for me on all patterns, one I failed to do (since I skipped the muslining stage) on my Easter Dress and really regret! As you can see in the picture below, the alteration was worth it! No extra fabric, just smooth seams.Itch to Stitch Marbella Dress Pattern | JaimeSews

Another change I made to the pattern was to blend between sizes. This is also common for me as my measurements always do land a little smaller on top than on bottom. At first Kennis and I did not think it would matter since the skirt is so roomy, but after some mystery fitting issues with the first muslin, I cut a larger skirt and attached to the practice garment after resolving the swayback and the correct size skirt made all the difference in the world. Itch to Stitch Marbella Dress Pattern | JaimeSews

I really want to emphasize that these are alterations I have to do every time I sew for myself so it was definitely not the pattern! In fact, the pattern itself was wonderful to work with. Everything fit together beautifully. And I really adored the techniques outlined in the instructions. They made me a better seamstress by walking me through some steps I am usually in too much of a hurry to consider (like trimming the lining pieces slightly to make them turn a little inward so you don’t see the lining peak out from the front of the garment). Little things like that, and more outlined in the instructions, really contribute to a professional finished product! Itch to Stitch Marbella Dress Pattern | JaimeSews

I think this dress has a lot of potential to be drastically different just by changing the fabrics! The fabric I chose is great for fall/winter with a jacket or sweater, but a floral would be great for spring and the yoke and bodice would lend themselves beautifully to color blocking, as you can see in some of the others’ tester versions. So be sure to click around below and follow the tour – you won’t be sorry!

ALSO – enter to win your own Marbella Dress pattern here!

*The Marbella Dress pattern was given to me in exchange for sewing and testing the fit and pattern details. Opinions are all mine. This post does contain affiliate links*

Wed, October 15:
Ann from The Pattern Studio by 1 Puddle Lane
Lindsay from Design by Lindsay

Thursday, October 16:
Debbie from Stitch It Now
Jaime from Jaime Johnson

Monday, October 20:
Darcy from Ginger House Designs
Stacey from All Sewn Up by Stacey

Tuesday, October 21:
Diane Guess Post on Itch to Stitch
Ajaire from Call Ajaire

Boys Pattern Bundle Up Sale

Happy Monday! I’m working on a few things this week I hope to share with you soon.  Make sure to follow me on Instagram & Facebook for some sneak peaks!

In the meantime, I wanted to make sure you knew about the Boys Bundle Up Sale by Pattern Revolution, now through Friday!!

Boys Bundle Up SaleIf you’re after some great boys patterns for fall, you won’t want to miss it. There are several pants styles, tops & awesome jackets up for grabs. You have to buy 6 patterns to get a price break but the more you buy the more you save! Check out the Launch Party post to see the patterns made up in lots of different ways. I have my eye on the P51 Flyer Jacket and the Field Research Pants – that lumberjack shirt is cute too! Let me know which are your favorite!

 

The Tinley Tee

I hope everyone had a great Mother’s Day yesterday! I got in a nap even, so you know mine was good!

GYCT Tinley Tee | JaimeSews

I had a great time last week pattern testing The Tinley Tee for Chelsea of GYCTDesigns! This is a sweet little t-shirt pattern pattern with so many sleeve and hem options, you’ll never need another t-shirt pattern!

TinleyTeeOptions GYCT Designs

I was assigned to test the long sleeve, banded hem version and I was so excited it was a t-shirt since I had found this great knit at F&M Fabrics a few weeks back with no real plans for how to use it. It was just meant to be! This pattern is a one hour project, cutting to finish. It is such a quick satisfying project and you don’t need a serger – I made this version all on my regular home sewing machine.

GYCT Tinley Tee | JaimeSews GYCT Tinley Tee | JaimeSews

GYCT Tinley Tee | JaimeSews

To see the tester photos with all options and sizes, visit GYCT Designs’ blog post about the Tinley Tee Release. The Tinley Tee comes in sizes 12 months to 12 years and is released TODAY in the GYCT Designs Etsy shop or on Craftsy. Two days only, today and tomorrow, you can grab the pattern for $5.95. After that it goes up to $7.95 so be sure to grab it while it’s on sale!