Handmade Christmas Pajamas

Hi! Thanks for stopping by my blog as a part of the Ruffle Pajamas Tour by Once Upon A Sewing Machine!! I’d love to get to know you and keep in touch so don’t be afraid to leave a comment or chat with me on facebook, twitter and/or instagram!

Traditions are a great way to celebrate the holidays. When I was little, my grandma always put a swimsuit in our Easter Baskets and I know many people give PJs on Christmas Eve. The Ruffled PJs pattern, available in sizes 12 months through size 6, is a great choice for continuing or starting this tradition!!

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

When the kids and I went to F&M Fabrics (online at TheFabricMarket.com) to look for flannel to make these PJs, the choice was made for us as soon as we saw this adorable camping animals print. A helpful employee pointed out this cute pink coordinate, which we thought would be perfect for the small bodice ruffle and the pant cuffs. (Side Note: My daughter is 3 and consequently is going through a phase where she MUST have her sleeves rolled up and don’t even mention the word elastic. Hence, our sleeves have no elastic and they are rolled up. The original pattern design has cute elastic gathered sleeve hems)

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

My daughter’s measurements landed right on the 3T in the chart provided in the pattern so that is what I cut, even though I was worried it might be too small. The top is very roomy, as described in the pattern description, “for movement and twirl” so every little girl will love that. I wish the pants were a smidge longer but they fit perfectly otherwise. To make room for the cuff option in size 3T, I was instructed to cut 3″ off the pant leg so next time I may just cut 1 or 2″ instead.

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

The instructions were clear with photos to illustrate each step. The only thing I did differently was use the cuff to, in essence, hem the pants (maybe this affected the length somehow?). Let me show you what I mean.

First I sewed the side seams and the inseam of the pants.

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

Then I sewed the cuff pieces together at the side seams (the instructions recommend sewing each one to the pant leg before assembling the pants).

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

I pressed the tubes in half, wrong sides together.

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

And placed them on the pant leg, lining up the raw edges of both pieces.

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

Then I sewed, serged and pressed the cuff down. There we go – no additional hemming!

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

The Ruffled PJs Pattern is on sale for just $5 this week!

Ruffle PJs Pattern by Once Upon A Sewing Machine | JaimeSews

So go get your copy and don’t forget to check out the other stops along the blog tour! (just click each name below)

Image Map

Omni Family Tour – JaimeSews

Today’s The Day!! It’s my turn to share with you my version of the Omni Tempore pattern for both kids and adults! I’m Jaime, found on twitter, facebook and instagram as JaimeSews. I’ve been sewing since I was 15 years old, earned a bachelors degree in Home Economics, worked selling sewing machines, in a quilt shop and later in a bridal shop & now sew from my home. I’m so glad you’ve stopped by!!
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
I’ve been busy making up some fall/winter staples for me and the kids with the Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes and I have TWO techniques to share with you!
  • How to adjust for using a not-so-stretchy knit with a pattern designed for knits and
  • How to create basic machine appliques to make your Omni Tempore your own!

BUT – You should know – there is a sale on The Omni Tempore pattern bundle all this week during the tour AND there’s a giveaway! (And if you so happen to purchase the pattern and then win it, you will be refunded so be sure to keep your receipt/email!)

Prize Pack #1

1.5 meters of fabric from Joy Fits Fabrics

Omni Tempore Pattern Bundle by Sofliantjes

Bustle Skirt Pattern by Koda Baby Boutique

1 Pattern of choice by Filles a Maman

1 Pattern of choice by Serger Pepper

1 Pattern of choice by E+M Patterns

1 Pattern of choice by Striped Swallow Designs

Omni Family Tour | JaimeSews

Prize Pack #2

1.5 merers of fabric from Joy Fits Fabrics

Omni Tempore Pattern Bundle by Sofilantjes

Grace Pattern by Rose & Lee Designs

1 Pattern of choice by Filles a Maman

1 Pattern of choice by Madeit Patterns

1 Pattern of choice by Dandelions n’ Dungarees

So be sure to read/scroll to the end of the post to enter!

Let’s get started!

All three of us got our fabric from F&M Fabrics locally, found online at thefabricmarket.com. They have the best prices hands down and a huge selection. As we walked down the aisle lined with the knits, the kids saw/felt/hugged/laid their heads down on this super fuzzy, exquisitely soft fleece.
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
If you’ve ever been shopping with your kids at the fabric store, you know it can be a challenge to focus. Well, we all fell in love with how unbelievably soft the fabric was that I completely disregarded that the pattern calls for knits.
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
Now Fleece is technically a knit, but 1) it’s bulky and 2) it’s not that stretchy. So I had to improvise. First (in order of discovery), I had to cut the collar lining from a much thinner knit in order to reduce bulk. I also ended up cutting about 1/2″ off the neckline all the way around to widen it enough for their little heads to fit through.
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
After I got the collar attached, I realized there would also need to be some more room in the body and sleeve to compensate for the lack of stretch. I took the same knit I lined the collar with and made a gusset all the way down from the wrist to the shirt hem. I really loved how this added a pop of color to each top!
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
This particular problem could also be solved by choosing a size or two up. The Omni Tempore pattern has unlimited options, including different sleeve lengths, sleeve/waistline ribbing or regular hem, kangaroo pocket, collar or hood! I let the kids each pick out their own style features and since they chose the collar I thought it’d be fun to choose the hood for myself.
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
What I love about the hood is that it also looks like the cowl neckline the kids have, so especially in the fabric I chose, it still looks dressy. But…it DOES have a hood!
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
This knit I found at F&M Fabrics is a super soft, sheer knit, great for fall & part of winter here in CA.
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
Regarding the Omni Tempore pattern, it was a super quick sew! Even with all the options, I found it easy to make three different variations without consulting the instructions much after making just one. The instructions were clear and the pattern pieces all fit together without a hitch. It was a thoroughly enjoyable sew!
Omni Tempore Pattern by Sofilantjes | JaimeSews
So let’s get on to how to add the applique!
Applique Tutorial | JaimeSews
First you need to gather all your supplies:
  1. Scissors
  2. A pencil/pen
  3. Pellon 805 Wonder-Under
  4. Fabric to applique
  5. Your applique design. I just found the images I wanted to use on the interwebs and printed them out.
Applique Tutorial | JaimeSews
Trace the applique design onto the paper side of your Wonder-Under.
Applique Tutorial | JaimeSews
Rough cut around the applique design you just traced onto your Wonder-Under and place it on the wrong side of your applique fabric. Press a few seconds to tack in place.
Applique Tutorial | JaimeSews
Allow it all to cool completely. Cut out the traced design.
Applique Tutorial | JaimeSews
Peel off the backing of your applique, making sure the webbing is attached to your fabric.
Applique Tutorial | JaimeSews
Place on your shirt where you want it to be…
Applique Tutorial | JaimeSews
Then fuse in place using a damp pressing cloth (or fat quarter sized muslin/cotton scrap) until the press cloth is dry. (See also the directions that come with your Wonder-Under). Stitch in place with a zig zag stitch.
Applique Tutorial | JaimeSews
The Omni Tempore is a great pattern for the whole family that doesn’t have to look matchy-matchy, but could if that’s what you’re going for! Thanks for stopping by and be sure to enter to win one of the amazing prize packs!

Click Here To Enter —-> a Rafflecopter giveaway

And don’t forget to head on over to the other stops on the tour!

Monday, November 24th
Tuesday, November 25th
Wednesday, November 26th
Thursday, November 27th
Friday, November 28th
Saturday, November 29th

MCM Studio Designs’ Estherlyn Jumper Tutorial

Today on the blog I’ve invited Linda Lehn of MCM Studio Designs to share a tutorial with you! Hint: She’ll show you an easy alternative for making ruffles! Take it away Linda!

Thank you so much, Jaime, for allowing me to write a guest post!  I am delighted and honored to be here.

Today I am excited to share a tutorial for a modification that can be made to my Estherlyn’s Jumper pattern.  The pattern is available through Craftsy, my Big Cartel Shop and my Etsy Shop.

In this tutorial I will show you how to add ruffles to the front and hem of the jumper.
Thank you to Lily AnnaBella, Faith and Kristie Mason Photography for the modeled photos.
I have had this idea in my head ever since I first drew a sketch for this pattern.  I was really excited to get a chance to give it a go!
So here’s how you do it.
After cutting out the pattern, you will need to mark placement lines for the ruffles.
First make marks 3/4 inch (2 cm) above the bottom edge of the fabric at the center and side of the skirt piece. Do this with the skirt piece still folded in the center.

After that, to determine how far apart to draw your placement lines, measure from the mark at the center to the center top of the skirt piece.  Subtract 3/8 inch (1cm) for the seam allowance at the top.  This distance will vary with different sizes.

I decided that I wanted nine ruffles in between because I wanted my ruffles to be 2 1/2 inches (6.4 cm) wide. Nine ruffles that size gave me the closest to an even measurement that was slightly less than the 2 1/2 inches (6.4 cm).  This distance needs to be a slightly smaller width than the ruffle itself so that the ruffles will overlap.  It wasn’t exact, but it was close enough. It took a little calculating to get a measurement that was easy to work with.
Dividing that measurement by nine gave me approximately 2 1/8 inches (5.4 cm).
Take that measurement and measure up from the first line at the center and make a mark.  Do the same at the side edge of the skirt piece.  Continue making marks like this until you get to the top of the piece.  Once the right side done, flip it over and make marks along the other edge as well.
Use a design curve ruler and draw lines to join them.  Mark from the center to the righthand side.
Keep the marks on the design curve as close to 90 degrees at the center and side edges as possible.  Each row is slightly different.  You will need to move the ruler just a bit for each row.
Continue all the way up the front piece.
Flip it over and do the left hand side as well.  For the left hand side, the ruler will need to be flipped over as well.
You will also need to make a mark where the seam allowance will be on each side of the skirt pieces.  This will help you know where to begin and end gathering the ruffles.  Measure in 3/8 inch (1 cm) from the edge to place these marks.
At this point it is a good idea to finish the bottom edges of the front and back skirt pieces with a serger or other edge finishing method.
Cut the ruffles slightly wider than the measurement between the lines.  My lines were 2 1/8 inch (5.4 cm) apart, I cut the ruffles at 2 1/2 inches (6.4 cm).  The ruffles should be cut as width-of-fabric strips if you are using a ruffler foot.  If you are gathering by hand, you may want to calculate the length of the strips by measuring each line with a measuring tape and then using a 1.5 or 2:1 ratio to determine the length.  Each row as you go up will require less fabric than the one below it.
You will also need to cut two additional pieces for ruffles for the bottom hem of the skirt.  For mine, in addition to the nine that were needed for the rows in the front, I needed to cut two more, one for the bottom front and one for the back.
I used my serger to roll a hem on both long edges of the ruffles. You can also create a narrow hem on a regular sewing machine.  If you make a narrow hem, the strips will need to be cut even a little wider than I cut mine to accommodate for the hem. The width of the hem will determine how much wider to cut the strips.
Now you are ready for the fun part, adding the ruffles to the skirt piece.  I use a ruffler foot to attach mine.
This is how I line up the line on the skirt piece with the edge of the ruffle strip.  I keep them in line with the hinge on the ruffler foot.  This gives me about a 3/8 inch (1cm) allowance from the top edge of the ruffle.
When using my ruffler foot, I always set it to 0 tucks per stitch until I know that I have passed the seam allowance.  This keeps the fabric within the seam allowance flat and makes it much easier to sew the side seam of the dress.
Once I know that I am a few stitches beyond the seam allowance, I stop with my needle down and set it to 1 tuck per stitch. When I get to the mark for the seam allowance at the end of the ruffle, I stop and set it back to 0.
The markings on the ruffler foot tell you how often it will add a tuck.  Zero means that it will not add any tucks at all, 12 means that it will add one tuck every 12 stitches, 6 means one tuck every 6 stitches and 1 means that there will be a tuck for every stitch.  The amount of fabric that will be tucked is determined by how tight the screw at the top of the foot is turned.  Tighter means it will take a bigger tuck, looser means it will take a smaller tuck.  Stitch length plays a big part in the amount of gathering that will go into the ruffle as well.  I usually have to play with scraps a bit to make sure that I have the amount of gathering that I want.
It takes a little practice to learn how to use the ruffler foot. Your two pieces of fabric move through the machine at different rates.  I use my left hand to guide the ruffle and my right hand to guide the piece to which I am attaching the ruffle.
Start with the bottom ruffle and move your way up to the top.  The ruffle at the top should be flush with the top edge of the skirt piece.
There will be a lot of leftover ends to the ruffle pieces hanging over each side of the skirt.  Carefully trim them off.  This will be much easier to do from the back of the piece.  For the bottom ruffle, just extend the line from the side of the skirt.
Pin and then baste them down inside the seam allowance in order to make it easier to sew up the side seams of the dress.
Once the front skirt piece is finished, add a single ruffle to the bottom of the back skirt piece.  To do this, once again, make a mark 3/4 inch (2 cm) above the bottom edge of the back skirt piece, draw your line, attach the ruffle and trim it accordingly.
Once those pieces are complete with ruffles, finish sewing up the dress as the pattern is written using the partial lining option and omitting the hemming steps.
Instead of doing two buttons on each side, I decided to get really crazy and make my own buttons out of polymer clay and just put one large button on each side.
So, there you have it… a fun, cute way to snazz up your next Estherlyn!  Thanks for reading and I  hope that you have enjoyed this tutorial.

Back To School with Straight Stitch Designs

Hello! I am Kimberly of Straight Stitch Designs and I am taking over Jaime’s blog today to talk about something near and dear all of our hearts, back to school time!

I will start by saying that summer is the time of year when being a stay at home parents pretty much rocks the world.  We can go to the park or zoo, hang out in the backyard and eat popsicles for breakfast or go swimming every day if we want to.  But as the summer draws to an end and everyone is getting bored and tired of being hot (wait is that just me?) we start looking forward to school starting again.

While I don’t have any kids in elementary school both of my kids attend cooperative preschool and my son has to bring lunch to school once a week.  For my daughter last year I just used plastic baggies for her lunch but I always felt so wasteful throwing them away after lunch.  And while all last year I kept telling myself I was going to make reusable bags I never actually did it.

I decided to stop being lazy and sew up a quick sandwich wrap for packing lunches and now I am kicking myself because they are just so easy!  Like two squares of fabric and some velcro easy.  So easy that there really isn’t a reason you all shouldn’t make these, or 10.  They are super handy to have around and don’t have to just be used for kids lunches.

And because I don’t want any of you to look back a year from now and kick yourself for not having these, I am going to take you through the steps to make your own.


I want to start with materials because there is a lot of debate on what is the best material to use for reusable food bags and wraps.  Many of the waterproof materials such as PUL, Polyurethane Laminate, are not certified as food safe.  With that said people still use it, either because they don’t know or don’t mind.  Ripstop is a very popular and apparently food safe options but since I wasn’t looking for waterproof I decided to just use some duck cloth.  Now it would have probably been better to use natural un-dyed canvas, but I wanted mine to be pretty so I washed the fabric on hot and called it a day.  Just do what you feel most comfortable with.

1. Start by cutting out two 12 inch by 12 inch squares, this size will be perfect for a full sandwich.  But the beauty of this tutorial is that you can make it any size you want, so if you typically make sandwiches from homemade bread that isn’t a standard size than make it the correct size to fit.  Just make sure you have a square in the size you choose.


2. Put your fabric right sides together and sew around the outside of the square with a 3/8″ seam allowance.  Make sure to leave a 2 inch opening which you will use to turn the fabric right sides out.


3. Before you turn the fabric make sure you clip the corners, this will help with the bulk at the corners and give you a cleaner look.  Once the corners are clipped reach inside and flip it right sides out.  My favourite tool for getting crisp corners is a chopstick and the best part is that it’s not sharp so it won’t poke through your fabric.

4. Take it to your ironing board and press all the seams flat.  Don’t forget to press the seam allowance of the opening inside.    I can be a bit of a lazy sewer sometimes and I am always tempted to just skip this step, but I promises you will never regret taking the minute or two to do it.  The end result is so much better with a good press.   If you don’t believe me go read this great article from the amazing Caila of Caila Made, where she talks all about the importance of pressing.


5. Now that all your seams are flat head back to your sewing machine and sew a nice topstitch around the entire perimeter of the square.  Not only does this secure the opening you used to turn the fabric but it also gives it a nice finished look.  You could also use a fun contrasting thread for a little bit of visual interest, I on the other hand was boring and just used white.


6. Now we just have to add the velcro and you are done.  Easy right?!

Make sure when you are sewing on the velcro that you sew each side of the velro on opposite sides of the fabric as shown in the picture.    The best part about doing the velcro this way is that your wrap is actually now reversible.


And just like that you now have a super handy and cute reusable sandwich wrap for your kiddos lunches.


It doesn’t just have to be for you kids lunches you can make these for the whole family.   With the little amount of fabric it requires this is also a really great stash buster and if you are anything like me you may have a huge stash of duck cloth.


Thank you Jaime for having me here to share my back to school sewing project.  I hope everyone enjoyed the tutorial and love their new reusable sandwich wraps.

If you are interested in seeing more of the things I am sewing and maybe even a few, or a thousand, pictures of my kids modelling the clothes I make for them head over to my blog Straight Stitch Designs.  I also love sharing my in progress sewing and crafting pictures on instagram so make sure to head over there and follow @straightstitchdesigns

Cargo Duffle Bag

Happy Monday! Did you sew something great this weekend?! I had a great day Saturday with my friend Karen making the Cargo Duffle Bag (Click here for the free pattern download!).

Cargo Duffle Bag | JaimeSews

I had pinned the pattern a few months ago and my friend Ginger suggested it be the project for my next class. As those of you with lego-loving kids know, the lego collection can get out.of.hand. So I thought I’d make my Cargo Duffle Bag in fabrics my son would love and use it to consolidate all his legos into one location! I got the Star Wars Fleece and strap for the handles at F&M Fabrics (online as www.thefabricmarket.com). You might think fleece was a strange choice for a bag, but it actually made for a fun texture once quilted and the walking foot made sure the layers stayed together while quilting so I think it worked out!

Cargo Duffle Bag | JaimeSews

The Cargo Duffle has a simple design with just one large double cargo pocket on the outside. We decided on a velcro closure instead of snaps, placing the hook part horizontally along the top of the pocket and the loop vertically near the edge of the flap. This allows for the growth of the pocket as it’s stuffed with important things. I varried from the recommended quilting on the front and back panels. The pattern calls for horizontal straight lines of quilting, but being that I was gearing this toward beginner sewers and a one-day session, I wanted it to be more simple and less time consuming. I opted for 3″ wide crosshatching, then I stitched the contrast in place and quilted it down from the back side, following the stitching lines of the quilting I had already done. Cargo Duffle Bag | JaimeSews

The inside is canvas, which also helped in stabilizing the fleece, but otherwise, just provides a sturdy interior for any outer fabric you may want to use. The binding on the seams leaves such a great impression. I really am in love with how finished it looks inside. My only regret is I couldn’t find a 26″ zipepr, so there’s a little gap in my zipper gusset. I have plans to fix it, though, never fear!  (although it might be great for squeezing the last few legos into the bag Ha!) Cargo Duffle Bag | JaimeSews

If you’re new to zippers, this is a great introductory project since the zipper is sewn in to each side piece before constructing the rest of the bag, so do NOT be intimidated by the zipper! My friend Karen did a great job with it.

Cargo Duffle Bag | JaimeSews

And speaking of Karen – here’s the big reveal of her bag! She came to the Quilt class a few months back and used my machine to make her first sewing project and only recently got a machine for herself! I think her bag turned out AMAZING, don’t you?!

Karen's Cargo Duffle Bag | JaimeSews

So we definitely recommend this pattern! It would make a great overnight bag for the kids, a project bag for taking to class or use it for storage like I plan to! Let me know if you make one!

DIY Nursing Cover

I love to give handmade gifts so when I heard a friend’s daughter was having a baby boy and decorating in a nautical theme, I started my search for fabric. After ordering something that ended up being out of stock, I picked up this nautical panel expecting to make a simple quilt. When I talked to my friend, it was evident that the baby had received more than enough blankets, afghans and quilts from her showers so my friend requested a nursing cover instead.


I have made them before but I always like to check a pattern or tutorial to refresh my memory. Here’ a link to the tutorial I found via Pinterest. Makes a great 1 hour project!

Beginning Quilting

Kids Clothing Week starts today! Do you have any plans to participate?! You can see what I’m planning here and follow on Instagram and Facebook to see my progress.

This past Saturday, I offered a class for a few local friends to get them started in quilting! The project was a 40″ x 60″ lap quilt – a great introduction to rotary cutting,  simple piecing and finishing by the envelope method and tying.

UPDATE: This quilt is now available as a FREE PDF Tutorial on Craftsy!

Beginner's Quilt | JaimeSews

Here are some photos of our day and be sure to scroll to the bottom for fabric requirements and basic instructions. This would make a great project for someone just starting out, for prayer quilts, kids, a quick gift, etc.

Becky cutting her squares

Quilting Day | JameSews

Jewell, Morgan & Karen Sewing Away

Quilting Day | JaimeSews

My dd “helping” Becky lay out her quilt

Quilting Day | JaimeSews

Morgan’s Ombré Chevron Quilt (Morgan’s not a beginner, she just came for the sew day!!) No pattern, just 3″ strips made into 6″ squares and a little layout planning!

Ombre Chevron Quilt

More of the adorable baby lol

Little Quilter | JaimeSews

So here are the details for making the quilt yourself! UPDATE: This quilt is now available as a FREE PDF Tutorial on Craftsy!

1/4 yd each of 6 coordinating fabrics
5/8 yd border fabric
1 1/2 yd backing
Crib size 45″ x 60″ Warm & Natural batting (or equivalent)

Cotton thread
Thin yarn/embroidery floss for tying
Chenille hand sewing needle
Sewing Machine
Rotary cutter & mat
Rotary ruler a minimum of 7″ wide (or combination of 2 rulers to achieve width)


  1. Cut one 7″ strip x the width of your fabric from each of your 6 coordinating fabrics.
  2. Cut each strip in to six 7″ squares.
  3. Lay out the squares in the desired format putting 5 squares across and 7 down.
  4. Use a 1/4″ seam to sew squares together row by row. Press seams in row 1 all one direction, then row two seams in the opposite direction, alternating each row.
  5. Pin row one to row two, butting up each row one seam against each row two seam. Sew rows together with a 1/4″ seam, removing pins as you go. Press seams to one side.
  6. Cut five 4″ strips by the width of your fabric from your border fabric. Cut one strip in half and attach each half to two of the longer strips.
  7. Measure the length of your quilt through the center and cut the joined strips to this measurement. Sew these to each long edge of your quilt using a 1/4″ seam. Press seams to one side.
  8. Measure the width of your quilt through the middle and cut the remaining border strips to this length. Sew to he top & bottom edges of your quilt using a 1/4″ seam. Press seams to one side.
  9. Finish as desired with the envelope method and ties or layer, quilt and bind (additional fabric needed if you choose to make & use binding).

Beginner's Quilt | JaimeSews